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So, what do I need on bottom line in final grid?

Jogamel, if you've now got the correct phrase, jot down the letters in words 1, 2,4 and 7. Cross off the letters that you've used in the grey bits in 1 D, 7 A and also the letters in the other grey squares. You'll be left with seven letters - those plus one more (a consonant, as suggested earlier) can be anagrammed to give a final thematic word.

I have finished everything apart from parsing 29d if anyone can explain it please

I know I can't see the wood for the trees so many times. But you have helped so much I thank you.

Hi Jogamel begins with a G. Hope this helps

29 D. Pong everywhere within base (5)
The 'pong' should be Pang. The first four letters of the answer fit the 'everywhere' bit, then add E for 'base' . The result equals Pang, and Chambers confirmed it.

Thank you Malone

All finished apart from identifying the replacement word to put in 21a. I have a couple of possibilities but they produce place names at 22d and/or 23d, the letters involved being 'a' at 22d and 'c' or 'g' at 23d (unless the entries are wrong). Can anyone give a hint please?

21 A sums up the whole theme! You need to change only the last three letters. No place names come from the changes.

Thanks Malone, I see it now!